Section: Weekends

Heaven’s Gate Cottages

50055/18 McKenzie Highway, Vida, OR 97488
(503/541) 822-3214 /896-3855

Whatever the season, a back-porch perch at Heaven’s Gate is recommended for viewing the river slipping by.

From that particular perch, the particular river would be the McKenzie. Widely esteemed in trout and steelhead circles, the shallow waters of the McKenzie offer thrills to all ages and attitudes. Whether it’s adrenalin-inducing white-water rafting or sleep-inducing aqua-gazing, the McKenzie fills the bill.

A little less than three hours from Portland and six hours from Seattle, Heaven’s Gate Cottages lie nestled along the river’s north bank on Highway 126, 45 minutes east of Interstate 5 at Eugene-Springfield. The drive into the foothills is a pleasant farewell to the lean concrete of the interstate.

In the summer, angling is an obvious lure at Heaven’s Gate Cottages. The McKenzie is known for its game fish. With the river virtually underfoot, a novice would have no trouble casting from the deck, but the area is full of other options.

The water alone offers many. First comes fishing for the big one. If you’re no trout expert, you can accompany a fishing guide.

If being on the water is what you crave, there are even more options. For timid porch-sitters, there are scenic riverboat rides; for adventuresome thrill-chasers, there are white-water rafting trips.

Also, nearby facilities rent floating devices such as a kayak or a motorized flatboat.
While the river itself is much too treacherous for water-skiing or windsurfing, those too are mere moments away. The Cougar and Blue River reservoirs are within 15 minutes.

Head up the Cascades to Fish Lake, just 45 minutes away, and you notice that the area along the McKenzie Highway is full of recreational and scenic spots. Stream fishers find an abundance of picturesque sites, including Belknap Springs, Lost Springs, and Sahalie Falls.

Natural phenomena are found at Sawyers Ice Cave near the lava fields, about an hour east of Heaven’s Gate. Farther cast is the pioneer-style city of Sisters. Beloved for its western classic quaintness and one-of-a-kind shops, Sisters makes for an excellent lazy afternoon.

When the sun sets, get ready for blissful isolation – if that’s what you want. Even though the cottages have full kitchens and even a Weber out back – ready for your choice of grillables – some people simply prefer not to cook.

You’re in luck. The Forest Glen (Blue River), a mere five minutes east, has good food and a lounge at reasonable prices. The Log Cabin Restaurant and Lounge (McKenzie Bridge), the Village Cafe (Nimrod), and the Riverside Inn and Ike’s Pizza (both in Vida) are all within about 20 minutes via back roads and offer ample epicurean diversity. Breakfast can be had at the Whitewater Cafe (Blue River) or the Vida Cafe (yes, in Vida) any time after 7:00 a.m.

Heaven’s Gate manager Mary Mitchell knows the neighborhood and is glad to point the way. She’s just up and across the road at the yellow house behind the Heaven’s Gate sign, and she commutes to the cottages on a custom golf cart covered with banners and hearts.

As you learn later – after a rigorous day in the woods and the dinner of your choice – while lounging by the fire with the sound of water all around you, this environment can’t help but kindle romance.

In fact, it’s not unheard-of for couples to abandon all plans after checking in. Once you see the potential for private relaxation, you may not want to open
the door again until your departure.

Relaxing in the warm comfort and rustic air of the Moon River (one of four cottages – two one-bedroom units and two studios) evokes memories of a distant, gentler time.

Studios ($61, double occupancy) house a queen-size bed with a davenport that folds down into a double bed. Both a queen and a double bed occupy the bedroom of the larger units ($70, double occupancy), with a fold-out davenport in the living room.

Each extra person costs only $6 – not a bad rate – but most would agree this is more of a couples thing just the same.

-Michael Browning

[2013 revision goes here]